Winter storms combine several household risks that rarely appear together: extreme cold, ice loading on structures and power lines, heavy snow, and wind — and they do it in a sequence that can produce extended utility outages at exactly the moment heat demand is highest. The cold house scenario — a home that is losing heat faster than any backup source can replace it — is the central winter storm preparedness problem, and it has a workable set of preparations.

This guide covers what to do before the season, what to do in the 48-hour window before a forecast storm, and the decisions that matter most during extended cold.

Before the season: the three-hour investment

Winter storm preparedness is largely done before any specific storm forms. The lead time on most winter storms is too short to do structural preparation; by the time the forecast is certain, the window for hardware-store runs and contractor visits is usually closed.

Heating system inspection

Forced-air furnaces, boilers, and heat pumps should be serviced once a year. The filter in a forced-air system should be checked and replaced on the manufacturer’s schedule — typically every one to three months, more often in dusty homes or with shedding pets. A dirty filter reduces efficiency and, in extreme cases, causes the system to overheat and shut down.

For homes with natural gas or propane heat: know where the main shutoff is and how to use it. Know the pilot light relighting procedure if your system has a standing pilot.

For homes with oil heat: check the oil level before the season and arrange a delivery before a storm is forecast — delivery schedules tighten immediately before and during significant weather events.

Pipe inventory

Walk through the house and identify pipes that run through unheated or minimally heated spaces: exterior walls, under-sink cabinets on exterior walls, uninsulated crawl spaces, attics, and garages. These are your freeze risk. Pipe insulation foam sleeves (installed by slipping over the pipe; available at hardware stores in standard sizes) are cheap and installable in an afternoon. Heat tape — thermostatically controlled pipe heating cable — is the more reliable option for very cold exposures.

Know where the main water shutoff is for the house and verify it operates. If a pipe bursts during an event, the first action is to shut the water off; discovering you don’t know how to do this during the event is a bad outcome.

Weatherization basics

Drafts increase heat loss significantly and can make a house uncomfortable at heating-system-normal temperatures. A 30-minute draft inspection — running a hand along window frames, door thresholds, and electrical outlets on exterior walls while the wind is blowing — finds the worst offenders quickly. Foam outlet gaskets (under outlet covers), door threshold sweeps, and door and window weatherstripping are inexpensive and installable without professional help. Caulk around window frames where caulk has shrunk or cracked.

The payoff is twofold: the house heats more efficiently during normal weather, and it loses heat more slowly if the heating system fails during an extended event.

Backup heat option

If a household doesn’t have a fireplace or wood stove, some consideration of backup heat options is worthwhile before winter. Options:

  • Indoor-rated propane heaters. Units with an oxygen depletion sensor (ODS), such as the Mr. Heater Buddy series, are designed for safe indoor use in ventilated spaces. Crack a nearby window when operating.
  • Kerosene heaters. Effective for emergency heat; require ventilation; fuel must be stored safely and replaced if old (deteriorated kerosene burns poorly).
  • Generator + electric space heater. A generator operated correctly outdoors (see CO safety guidance) can power an electric space heater indoors safely. But run the extension cord carefully and never overload the outlet.

A household decision about which backup approach fits the space and situation is much easier to make in October than during a storm warning.

The supply list for winter outages

Winter outage supplies differ from warm-weather kit staples in a few ways:

  • Extra blankets and sleeping bags rated for cold — one per person
  • Hand and foot warmers (chemical, single-use) as supplemental warmth
  • Ice melt and a shovel at accessible exterior doors
  • Extra batteries for flashlights and the weather radio
  • The food supply as discussed in the pantry-first guide

The 48-hour window before a significant storm

When a storm is forecast with high confidence 48 hours out, there’s a compressed window to complete practical preparations.

Fill the fuel tanks on all vehicles now. Gas stations will be short on personnel and long on lines closer to the storm. Fill tonight; do not wait until the morning the storm arrives.

Fill prescriptions. Pharmacies operate shorter hours and sometimes close during severe weather. If any household member takes daily medication, a fill before the storm is a resilience step.

Stock water. Even in winter, extended utility outages can affect water pressure if pump stations lose power. Fill the refrigerator with water containers, fill the bathtub with a WaterBOB liner if you have one, or simply fill every large pot. Our water storage guide has the baseline figures.

Charge everything. All phone power banks, all battery-powered tools, all rechargeable lanterns — charge them before the power might go out.

Set the refrigerator and freezer to maximum cold. Food will stay safe longer in a colder starting state if power is lost.

Prepare the car. Check tire pressure (drops with temperature), ensure there’s an ice scraper and blanket in the vehicle, and verify that the emergency car kit is in place.

Protect the pipe exposures. Set the thermostat to at least 55°F if you’ll be away; keep cabinet doors under exterior-wall sinks open; consider leaving those faucets dripping slowly during the worst of the cold.

During the extended cold event

The refrigerator/freezer rule: Keep the refrigerator door closed. An unopened refrigerator keeps food safe for about 4 hours; a full unopened freezer for about 48 hours. Per FoodSafety.gov guidance, a half-full freezer maintains safe temperatures for about 24 hours. Opening the door for any reason resets the clock.

The temperature threshold decision: If indoor temperatures drop below 55°F, pipes in exterior walls are at risk. At 40°F, most adults are uncomfortable and vulnerable populations (infants, elderly, anyone with respiratory or cardiovascular conditions) are at meaningful risk. Know in advance what temperature triggers a departure decision for your household — and where you’d go.

Heat loss mitigation: Close off rooms not in use; concentrate people in the smallest, most insulated space. Hang blankets over doorways. If a gas range is available, using it for cooking (with burners off afterward) will add modest warmth as a side effect — gas ranges do not require electricity and do continue to function during electrical outages. Do not use the oven to heat the home, and never run any combustion source indoors without the ventilation appropriate to that device.

Snow and ice load on the roof: Many homes can carry several feet of snow on the roof; sudden ice accumulation from freezing rain followed by heavy snow is the combination that occasionally causes structural loading issues in homes built in climates not designed for it. A roof rake (long-handled tool to pull snow off a roof from the ground) can remove accumulation from eaves. Never shovel a roof from on top during a storm.

FAQ

At what temperature do pipes freeze?

Pipes begin to freeze at 32°F (0°C). Pipes in uninsulated exterior walls, crawl spaces, and attics can reach freezing temperatures before interior temperatures do. The American Red Cross recommends protective measures — dripping faucets, open cabinet doors — when outdoor temperatures drop below 20°F (-7°C).

Can I use my gas stove to heat my home during an outage?

A gas range’s burners can be used for cooking during an outage (gas supply typically continues when electricity fails). The range should not be used as a home-heating device — leaving burners running generates carbon monoxide, and gas ovens are not designed for heating duty. A camp stove, which must be operated outdoors, and proper backup heaters are the alternatives for space heating.

What should I do first when the power goes out in winter?

Check your utility’s outage map and report your outage. Set your thermostat lower to reduce heating system cycling (conserves backup fuel if on a fuel-burning heating system). Assess your food supply and close the refrigerator completely. If you have a portable power station or generator, deploy it with proper safety measures.

How do I safely remove an ice dam from a roof?

Ice dams form when heat escapes through the roof, melts snow, and the meltwater refreezes at the cold eave edge. The correct treatment is to remove snow from the roof (with a roof rake from the ground) to prevent new ice from forming, and to let existing ice melt slowly rather than chipping it, which can damage the roof covering. Calcium chloride ice-melt products can be applied to channels in the ice dam to allow drainage. Do not use sodium chloride (rock salt) on roof surfaces.